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travel@pangolin.liSouth Africa 2002
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www.pangolin.li Travel South Africa 2002 1 Rocktail Bay KZN 2 Londolozi Safari 3 Cape Town 4 Winelands/Karoo 5 Garden Route Gallery |
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contact last updated: 19-Jul-2005 Text/pictures subject to copyright by pangolin.li |
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Part 5 - Garden RouteHoogekraal and BotlierskopThe last few days were spent in George, in the Hoogekraal Country House, which we used as a base to explore the surroundings.The road from Oudtshoorn to George leads over the scenic Outeniqua pass. Hoogekraal was somewhat difficult to find, and it turned out it was a strange place to stay. The hosts were very friendly and helpful, and great (hi)story-tellers, and the main house (dating back to a Botha who came here in 1723) was packed to the roof with Cape-Dutch antiques. Dinners were rich, and held at one common table, with silverware, candle-lit. The rooms however (or better: small houses) were more than small and extremely stuffy. If you plan to go there, only go if you get a a room in the main house. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of Hoogekraal. The owners at Hoogekraal suggested a trip to Botlierskop game farm, since Thomas and Andrea had not been on safari. Botlierskop is close to George, and is really a farm - animals are raised to be sold. The area is not closely as big as one of the game reserves or smaller National Parks (even though it might be comparable to Mkhaya Game Park in Swaziland), and the enclosures are quite visible. But if you want to see animals close by, can't go to Krueger (or don't want to take Malaria pills) and stay on the Garden Route, then it is a good place to spend a day. We haven't seen cats other than four old lions in a separate enclosure, and no elephants (they have them now), but anybody else... Special for us were the Black Impalas (some are born black in the wilderness too, but don't survive and mate and pass on their black genes since they can't camouflage) and a big group of usually elusive Eland close by. And special was also to see a wildebeest on the same meadow as cows, with just a little fence in between. Our friend Ursula stayed in Botlierskop in May 2005. She told me that Botlierskop now built luxury tents including Boffi bathtubs - she very much liked her stay there.
KnysnaWe spent one day on a trip to Knysna. To go, we took the Seven Passes Road, which starts northwards of George. This is kind of the "old" Garden Route - these were the inhabited regions when the lagunas in Wilderness or Knysna were still infested with nasty diseases. The road is parallel to the main road, but along the slopes of the Outeniqua mountains, and it is not always tarred (we managed it easily with our high-clearance 2WD). This route leads through old forests, with many ferns, lianas, lovely flowers and little creeks - a way to drive with the windows wide open (or on a bicycle?). Halfway there is a big yellowwood tree. Only towards the end it gives way to human settlements, and occasional views to the coastal villages and the sea. How to find it again? Leave the N2 between Pick'n'Pay and Pine Lodge and follow the signs to Katarane. Coming from Knysna, cross the white bridge over Knysna River and take the next right exit to Phantom Pass. Thanks to my guidebook...
From George, we took our flight home, via JNB. The George airport was remarkable in that it is the only one I know where a hotel has its own Airport Lounge for its guests... Back to South Africa 2002 main page Back to Travel main page |
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