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Some notes on the hotels, riads and kasbahs we stayed in on our trip to Morocco in April 2006, as well as some restaurants (go to the main page here).
The Riads
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Ryad Mabrouka, near Ain Azliten Parking, Fès
Situated close to the Bou Inania Medersa overlooking the city, restored
with taste and with excellent hospitality, this was the accommodation
highlight of our trip. French-owned Ryad Mabrouka has been meticulously
restored a few years ago, with several of the old features now revived
- most special was my parents' room, Attarine, with a wonderfully
painted ceiling and a skylight. A tiled courtyard, a walled garden
smelling of orange flowers, eight tastefully decorated rooms (with own
boiler, so hot water worked!) and a mezzanine and roof terrace
overlooking the medina. The hospitality of Michel and his team,
especially when arranging the birthday dinner and surprise for my
mother. We enjoyed an excellent dinner there. A place to come back! |
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Riad el Zohar, near Mouassin Mosque, Marrakech
Again a central location, very close to the Djeema el Fna - once you find the riad! But a heaven of
tranquility with a cool patio with pool, lush vegetation, and a rooftop
terrace with cosy tents and bougainvilleas, with awesome views of the
surrounding roofs and the Koutoubia (and probably the Atlas Mountains,
if the air is clear). The Riad el Zohar's 6 rooms look a bit too much out of a glossy
coffeetable book, but are very cosy. The young Moroccan staff was very
attentive, but unobtrusive - perfect! A good retreat in the bustle of
Marrakech, and a place to come back. |
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The Kasbahs
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Tinerhir is a city whose atmosphere I liked, with a kind of "last
frontier" feeling to it. This is also true for the Kasbah Tomboctou, in
a sense. This really is an old kasbah, not a look-alike as others in
the city, so it was a good experience to once stay in a building made
of mud, with a feeling of sixty years ago clinging to it. It is in
walking distance of the souk and the Mellah. The rooms are tiny and
equipped without much fuss - it feels honest, in a way. There is a pool
and a few deck-chairs in the courtyard. Only the restaurant was not a
highlight, with average cuisine, minimal sitting comfort (back
pains...) and minimal hospitality - it just lacked the presence of a
maitre d' - even though the Swiss owner of the hotel sat on the next
table... According to my Rough Guide, there are not many dinner options
in Tinerhir. But next time I'd go to the souk and central place for a
few brochettes. |
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The Dar Mouna terrace is surely the place for a sundowner, in Ait
Benhaddou, to watch the historic fortress/village change colours while
the sun sets. The hotel itsself looks like a kasbah in pisé
architecture from the outside, but the interior is mostly western
style. The rooms are small, and have basic, almost biblical amenities
(like sheepskin rugs, and very basic plumbing) - but in warm colours
and nice patterns. There is a pool and a common room. The staff was
friendly, though a bit slow sometimes. The downside was the dinner -
with a single piece of tongue in an undefinable sauce as the main
course of the set menu. My brother almost pu... when he found out what
this meat with the strange texture was! I really would have preferred
Tajine! |
The western-style hotels
Hotel Farah, Rabat
A 5* business hotel in a good location in Rabat: The Golden Tulip Farah Hotel is just adjacent to the
Place Tour Hassan and the medina, with views over the medina to the
Kasbah Oudaias, and over the Bou Regreg river to Salé, from the
rooftop terrace and poolside. There are several restaurants, several
bars (one with famous Sylvia, a picture of whom hangs in the elevator -
she really looks better in reality!), a gym and indoor pool - whatever
you expect from a 5* hotel. You can walk to most sights (though I,
personally, prefer taxies, but I was in the minority in our family).
The 193 rooms look like business hotel rooms elsewhere. Service is
okay, and the breakfast was truly the most remarkable we had on our
trip, with fruit and chees and freshly-made eggs and yoghurt and ...
Only coffee was as bad as elsewhere. Stay with mint tea. Surely an
excellent option in Rabat, though not very Moroccan in style.
Hotel Zaki, Meknès
The one thing I liked about the Zaki Hotel was its garden. Zaki was the most
decent-looking Meknès hotel our travel agent had in his
portfolio. But next time I will book something else over the internet.
First of all it was hard to find, since it was too far from the city
center to be on any of our maps (should you really wish to go there,
follow the Avenue Bir Anzarane following the valley between old and new
town, past the hospital, until you eventually reach the red hotel) -
this means you have to take the car when you want to see anything of
the city. Then: The only two friendly and courteous persons were the
parking attendant and the afternoon barman; everyone else was snappy
and made you feel an unwanted intruder. The rooms are boring, with old
beds, and last-century plumbing - my mother's shower just fell off,
flooding the bathroom. And the breakfast... well, we dediced to fetch
fruit from our car instead...
But the garden was nice, with the orange trees in bloom.
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Restaurants
And a few notes on the restaurants we've been to (except hotel restaurants and foodstalls)
Restaurant el Bahia, Rabat, Bd Hassan II (near Av. Mohamed V)
A courtyard and mezzanine set IN the old Andalucian wall, at the entry
to the market. Very touristy, but the food was good - our first
brochettes and tajine in Morocco. We went for a late lunch - first is
was full to the last seat, but got more relaxed later. Most guests were
tourists or students. Service was quick and friendly. Would go again.
Restaurant de la Plage, Rabat, Plage Oudaïas
We had dinner at the Restaurant de la Plage, praised in my Rough Guide
- to me it was average cuisine with a strong focus on fresh fish, but
no real alternatives for the vegetarians in our family. My dorade was
fine, but not overwhelming, whereas the veggie soup was an unsalted
overpeppered veggie mash. First there were only tourists, but later a
few locals appeared. The setting just above the beach would be nice in
summer or for lunch, but it was a cold and windy night... We paid 800
DH for 5, with local wine.
Restaurant Tajines wa Tanjia, 9 Rue Baghdad, Rabat
A small and cosy restaurant just near the main station. Decorated with
rural Moroccan motives. The specialities are tajines and tanjias, i.e.
stews cooked in earthen pots (tanjia is simmered in the embers of a
hamam fire for 5 hours...), but they had other moroccan dishes too,
including vegetarian. All our courses were tasty. The restaurant was
dimly lit, almost romantic, and there was a lute player serenading,
with just the right volume. Seemed to be visited by locals for romantic
dates. Would for sure go again.
Restaurant Le Collier de la Colombe, 67 Rue Driba, Meknès
A panoramic restaurant in the upper floor of an old, but restored
mansion overlooking the Ville Nouvelle - full of ornaments and zellige
patterns. The food was good: My tasty harira soup came in a big
old-fashioned soup bowl and would have served 5. Then they served a
huge portion of couscous, even though it was not Friday. There were
also alternatives for the vegetarians. Staff was attentive. First there
was only a family as other guests, but it was more than half full
later. We paid 950 dirham for 5 including local wine. Would come again.
Palais de Fès Dar Tazi
On our first night in Fes, we wanted to eat out. The owner of our Ryad
Mabrouka arranged a visit to Palais de Fès, and a car came to
fetch us (dinner only by appointment). The restaurant is high up, built
on a carpet shop roof near Place er R'cif. It was cold and windy, so we
had dinner inside, despite the fabulous view over the medina outside.
First the restaurant looked very touristy - apart from chain-smoking
Dutch, there were only Swiss guests! But the food made up for that.
There are only a few set menues which you can combine, and the smaller
menues are surely enough. The first course is Moroccan salads: an array
of ca. 12 kinds of marinated vegetables, beans and other nice stuff for
the five of us - mouthwatering! My brother and stepfather had ordered a
veggie couscous as main course - it was good, and would have fed all of
us... I had an excellent beef quince tajine - quinces simmered in a
spiced broth, and then the beef simmered in the quince broth. We
couldn't find space for a desert... Price was quite high (950 dirham
for 5, including wine), but it was worth it. Would come again.
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