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Part 4 - Van Zyl's Pass
Travel details
This part covers only the short route between km 139 (Otjitanda) and km
164 (end of Van Zyl's Pass) - but these 25 km took an afternoon and a
morning! For our route from Otjitanda onwards to Sesfontein we had GPS
coordinates from Wouter
Brand, and used The Shell Map of Kaokoland (Kunene Region),
1:625 000 (issued 1996) which proved not 100% accurate but gave enough
information. Check also the main page for more info on maps and books
about Namibia.
Contact me if you'd like to get our GPS data of this trip. And do check out our Namibia '03 photo Gallery.
Van Zyl's Pass
Van Zyl's Pass is what would, in Switzerland, be considered a path fit
for chamois and capricorns, or some intrepid goats. Even hiking paths
in Switzerland are easier manageable. So imagine a steep path full of
rubble, bigger and smaller rocks - and imagine your car going down
there. The first and the last part are quite steep, but there are
easier stretches between.
So there are a few points to consider when taking on the Van Zyl's Pass
challenge:
- Exercise extreme caution while driving - even
in the less steep stretches there are pointed stones. In the steeper
parts we used to split up: One guy operating steering wheel and brake,
the other standing outside, rearranging stones to cover pointed rocks,
giving directions (like "20 cm more to the left - oh, no, stop, you're
too far...!" and at one point even sustaining the car which was on the
verge to tilt. Us girls, of course, were not at all involved in these
manly adventures, but took more to things like watching the awesome
landscape, the many flowers and blooming trees, insects and
caterpillars - and taking pictures of our heroes.
- Don't go with just one car, in case something
happens to it (which is easily imaginable) - or else be flexible enough
time-wise to wait for someone to drive by and get help. We met just two
other cars
during these 24 hours, going the same direction. And they had suffered
a fracture earlier, and one car was no longer able to go in 4WD...
Luckily for them they had met South Africans with a satellite phone who
had phoned the renting company who brought a new car two days later...
- Going UP Van Zyl's Pass is not advisable (or
forbidden?) - because your car would damage what is still left of the
road by skipping stones downwards.
- Oh, I forgot to mention that you shouldn't try
with your saloon car :-)
There are two ways around Van Zyl's Pass to Marienflusstal and
Hartmann's Valley, if you don't want to take this challenge: Either
from Opuwo via Kaoko Otavi, Omutati, Orupembe and Rooidrum (Red Drum),
or else from South via Sesfontein and Purros to Orupembe. Both roads
require 4x4, but are much easier to manage also for the 4x4 novice.
Also Marienflusstal and Hartmann's Valley offer remote, but good sand
tracks.
However, if you decide to use Van Zyl's Pass, you're rewarded with a
lot of 4x4 adventure, a rugged and remote landscape, interesting flora
(we didn't see much fauna).
We chose a REALLY beautiful camping spot (km 157, S17 47 01.5 E12 57 47.4): A quite large green
meadow suddenly appearing between all those rocks, dotted with yellow
devil thorn flowers, high shady trees and a low hill sheltering us against the
wind. The ideal place for a late afternoon nap in a hammock, a chat with a herdsman who appeared out of nowhere, a good
braai and a very very quiet night. Check out the Panorama site for an another picture.
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Van
Zyl's Camp |
Towards
the end of Van Zyl's Pass |
We rose with the sun next morning for the last piece of the pass. At km
161 we met the two other cars, on a similarly stunning camping spot:
After driving in more or less narrow valleys until now, here the path
opened and gave a scenic view over the hills and valleys to the West.
Must have been a spot for a gorgeous sunset, but was also quite windy.
The last piece, after this viewpoint, was the worst, but soon after we
arrived at the heap of stones that marks the end of Van Zyl's Pass.
Don't forget to bring a waterproof pencil (also nail enamel will do,
should you carry this here) so that you can leave your mark on one of
the stones. Don't leave a mark elsewhere.
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Giving
guidance |
This
is the end |
More pics can be found in the Namibia '03 Gallery
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